Tapping into the 8th wonder of the world

The Milford Track is by far the most spectacular place I’ve been to on earth.  This highly popular tourist destination stretches 53.5 km from Lake Te Anau, finishing at Sandfly Point in the Milford Sound. The track winds through rain forests, waterfalls, and over a breath-taking alpine pass. Mostly in the presence of rain, Milford sees upwards of 6,800 mm per year – that’s more than 265 inches! A hut warden commented that there are sometimes periods of 20-30 days of straight rain, with an average of roughly 150 rain-free days per year. I don’t know if it was good karma or just pure luck, but we didn’t need a rain jacket once over the course of the 4 day tramp. 

I purchased the hut tickets before my plane ticket… That’s how popular this tramp is! Brian convinced me to partner up with him on the Milford expedition which totaled to be just over $300 for the entire experience. I suppose that goes to show how the tourist industry makes their money. There were only a few active couch surfing hosts in the small town of Te Anau. One host in particular had an immense amount of references and positive remarks. The infamous Des met Brian and I at the bus station to escort us back to his place where he was hosting another German traveler in his small two-bedroom house. After a few minutes of conversing, I quickly learned that this flamboyant Maori man was a couch-surfing superstar. He told us a story of a time when there were ten travelers caught sleeping on every spare inch in his living room due to a severe rain storm. The four of us helped prepare a delicious roasted pumpkin (very common dish among Kiwis) for dinner with a quinoa salad.

We set off for the Milford Track which is only accessible via boat. Brian and I didn’t waste time making friends who would be out tramping mates for the next few days. Christian, Robin, and Otto were from Germany, Holland and Aussie respectively. A crew of about 25 people stay complete the Great Walk in rounds, staying in Clinton Hut, Mintaro Hut and Dumpling Hut.  Each hut has a hut warden who collects tickets and informs the trampers of weather updates in addition to other information. Straight away, we learned about the Kea Mountain Parrot who is referred to as “cheeky” among the Kiwis. (This word is a term which describes someone as rude or sneaky). We were directed to watch our belongings and tie our boots before hanging them up outside the hut due to the Keas flying away with shoes, cameras, maps etc.

 

As we made our way to the top of Mackinnon Pass, I couldn’t believe the immense mountain cliffs in front of me. Yep, we were in the heart of Lord of the Rings territory. As we were taking an unnecessary amount of jumping pictures, a Kea flew down going after my stuffed turtle, Timmy who’s head was popping outside my backpack! I ran as fast as I could to scare the crazy parrot away, saving my beloved traveling turtle side-kick. It was Brian’s birthday on the third night of our trek. I a planned ahead and brought a brownie along with a candle. Brian left for the bathroom only to come back into a hut full of people singing Happy Birthday in languages from all over the world 🙂  I’d say that marks a pretty memorable birthday experience in New Zealand.

A final highlight of the track was Sutherland Falls which takes the prize as the tallest waterfall in NZ, dropping an impressive 580 meters (904 ft). Trampers are recommended to wear a rain jacket due to the immense spray from the waterfall. A hut warden also suggested to walk behind the falls among the moss-covered wall if we were feeling adventurous. A remarkable place!! Sandfly Point marked the ending point of the Milford Track. Sandflies are signature to New Zealand, especially in the south. These little buggers can basically ruin any outdoor experience. It’s often impossible to realize they’re biting you until it’s too late. These tiny flies that look like specs of dirt leave nasty bites itching worse than any mosquito bite. Farewell boat ride out of the Milford Sound was a moment of wonder and awe as our tramping crew took in the final sights of what’s undoubtedly considered the eight wonder of the world. 

Diving into the Kiwi Experience

Where to begin in describing this breath-taking terrain… From the thick, vibrant green bush filled with silver ferns and beech trees to the enchanting waterfalls and golden beaches, New Zealand continues to impress me everyday.

Before I get ahead of myself, a chat about my journey down to Fiordland NP. My friend Justin from CSU picked me up in Picton when my ferry landed-the gateway to the south. We cruised around Marlborough Sounds in his dark red mini-van with the intention to camp somewhere. After tramping around the area and cooking dinner, we decided to check out the campground down the road. In NZ, if you don’t strategically plan for petrol stops…welp, you could find yourself in a bit of a pickle. As we drove, Justin announced his slight concern about running out of fuel as the petrol light went on. The first thought I had was the fact that we were about an hour’s drive from any service station. It was getting darker and there was no sign of a campground. We both agreed it would be a safer bet to just pull over and sleep in the van somewhere. (This is not an uncommon practice in NZ referred to as “freedom camping”). Heaps of travelers see the country via van or car. The vehicle market is always active as folks are buying and selling consistently. The bed Justin put into his van was just big enough for the both of us… His overhead window was prime for star-viewing!

Justin and I on the Queen Charlotte Track in Marlborough Sounds

We were woken up by a startling knock on the window. Pulling the curtains aside, we found a older Kiwi man staring at us with an angry look on his face. Freedom camping is a sensitive topic in NZ as people have abused this privilege in the past, changing the law in 2011. The definition of freedom camping is essentially spending the night (in a car, van or tent) somewhere that is not designated. I learned pretty quickly how seriously Kiwis take this issue as it roots to respecting the land. The reasoning behind making freedom camping illegal was because of the waste that people were leaving and not taking responsibility for their environmental impact. It’s a $200 fine now if you’re caught freedom camping. As Justin and I scrambled to explain ourselves, we received no empathy from the man. He was nice enough to drive us to a petrol station so we could fill a jug that would get us back to town. By the time we parted ways with the Kiwi gentleman, we were sharing stories and laughs. Talk about diving straight into the Kiwi scene…

The next day I made my way to Kaikora on the east coast and further to Christchurch where I would meet Joe from England who I’d be traveling the south island with for a couple of weeks. Before arriving in NZ, I researched the hitch-hiking scene as I knew it was a common practice. It’s justifiable for anyone to be a bit nervous throwing yourself with such vulnerability towards humanity. On the bus ride down, I noticed heaps of hitch-hikers with their thumbs out on the road. I knew I would be hitching with Joe and figured I might as well give it a go! A few backpackers in Kaikora who were avid hitch-hikers gave me a few tips. One: Smile as you hold your thumb out… people want to pick up hitchers who are pleasant and friendly to talk to during the drive! Two: Don’t wear sunglasses or a hat as you want people to see that you’re not dodgy or have something to hide. Three: Have a town in mind that’s the other direction. This is an easy out if you don’t want to get in the car!! Just play the dumb-traveler and say you’re headed to the city that’s actually in the opposite direction… Then “realize” that you’re on the wrong side of the road and wish them a nice day. Four: Be polite! This is a big one as the driver is giving you a free ride 🙂 Five: If you’re not having any luck after a couple hours, stick a kiwi fruit on your thumb… It brightens your spirits and is known increase the likelihood of getting a ride. Six: Do not fall asleep in the car! That’s just rude..

I don’t think the nerves of hitching for the first time compare to anything I’ve ever felt before. I decided to go check out some seal pups at a waterfall just outside of town and see if anyone in the car park was headed towards Christchurch. Sure enough, I stumbled upon a woman and her two kids who were out to see the seals. It also turned out that she moved to Telluride, Colorado from NZ ten years ago and was back visiting her parents! You could say the conversation was pretty free-flowing with our common ground. She dropped me at the hostel where I was meeting my friend Joe who I connected with through couch-surfing. He posted a message on a discussion board in the group “Seeking NZ Travel Mates.” It is what it sounds… connecting with fellow solo travelers. Joe and I skyped and arranged plans for the couple weeks we would be touring around the south island. Being from the UK, Joe had a two-year visa compared to just my year-long. He was completing his NZ journey and headed for Aussie next. It was nice to have a travel mate who knew the ropes of NZ already. Little did I know during the first cup coffee we shared that our friendship would blossom into a bond that I will cherish forever. Joe impressed me in many ways. He was brilliant with a guitar and such a pure voice… he can also do work in a kitchen! I learned several tricks from Joe including how to slice an onion efficiently, sauteing vegetables just right and how to perfect cooking rice. We made our way further south to Dunedin where I was meeting my friend Brian (another CSU mate) to then set-off on the Milford Track! Joe also had friends he was meeting and then was going to explore a different part of Fiordland while I was on the Milford. We would meet again in Queenstown, the start-point for our travels up the west coast.

I was excited to see my friend Brian who was just completing his semester studying abroad at the University of Otago. It was wonderful to be greeted with some Ram Pride!! I also happened to land on the week of his 21st Birthday! In NZ, it’s a big tradition on your 21st to undertake what’s referred to as a “yardie.” It is what it sounds… a yard of beer! Well, it’s essentially a glass that’s a yard in height to which eight beers are poured, and then the lucky victim kneels on one knee, drinking the entire thing as fast as possible! The record is set at just under two minutes… Which is pretty impressive. Generally completing a yardie involves spewing and just gets a bit messy. Brian persevered and was a champ through the entirety of it. I’m pretty thankful I was 23 upon arriving so I wouldn’t have the joy of enduring that experience. After a few nights in Dunedin, Brian and I caught a bus to Te Anau which is the launch pad city for Fiordland National Park.

Brian before starting his 21st Birthday yardie of beer!

Feelings of joy!

I was bound for the capital city of Wellington to catch the ferry to the south island. A gentleman on Couchsurfing named George Setefano contacted me after seeing that I arrived in NZ and was looking for a host around Wellington. He sent me a message welcoming me and offered to host me if I needed a place to stay! His gesture was yet another token of graciousness by the Kiwi kind, and boy was George’s profile impressive! An overwhelming number of positive references raving about his compassionate, accepting spirit. He has seen all the seven wonders of the world and has sailed the seven seas too! One of my favorite philosophies George stands by is that happiness is a choice, and a verb…so get busy!!

George met me right at the bus stop in Porirua and took me on a short tour of the area, catching the sunset at a sea-side lookout. He even made a special trip to introduce me to his family! I learned about Samoa, a Polynesian island (well, two islands actually) which is where part of George’s family is from. Sounds like a pretty fantastic place that has now been added to the travel list. So not only did George take me under his wing, but he also served as Nelson Mandela’s body guard when he was in New Zealand! Cool, aye?!

Before dropping me off at my ferry in the morning, George asked if I would contribute something to his memory collection of all the travelers he’s hosted. I was hesitant as he pulled out a voice recorder… ‘A few words, a song, or a salute of some kind’ is how George presented his request, handing me the recorder. I thought, how cool is it to have audio recordings to remember couch-surfers with words across the world! The first song that popped into my head was “Look to This Day,” based off of the proverb: Look to this day, for today well-lived makes every yesterday a dream of happiness and every tomorrow a vision of hope (which is also the theme of this blog). As I closed the car door and waved good-bye, a sense of joy filled my body from my toes to my fingertips. A feeling that brought me new energy and confidence for the endeavors ahead. Little did I know, I would receive even more support and encouragement from George throughout my time in New Zealand! We frequently message on facebook, keeping in touch with each other’s happenings.

 AotearoAAotearoa

Let the ‘ventures begin!!

Jumping onto the “Naked Bus” in Auckland started the beginning of Chapter One: Exploring the vast and untamed land of Aotearoa. It only took one six-hour trip for me to realize that I was not so keen about the bus experience in NZ. How to describe Kiwi drivers…? Promptly nonchalant; meaning they zoom around curves with ease as everyone clenches to their seats.

That evening I stayed with Tessa Jacks who lives just east of Hamilton. I was in contact with her before arriving to work as a groom. Tessa and her boyfriend, Frasier compete in dressage, jumping and eventing with about six horses. I would start working for her in January. Their place was pretty nice, along with the beautiful horses… More to come about Tessa and the horses in future posts.

I was anxious to see a few places around the area before heading south! Couchsurfing has played a significant role in my journeys across New Zealand. With approximately seven million members, the website has developed fantastic ways to meet locals in the area where you’re traveling. I posted a message that I was looking for a mate to check out a few places around the north island with and found several people responding within a matter of hours! Little did I know that many laughs were ahead with a dentist named Sid (short for Sidhanta). He scooped me up from Tessa’s and off to Taupo we went! Well, almost… He had to clean some teeth that day, so I found myself using the wifi at McDonalds between his dentist appointments (how ironically American of me?)

Sid took me for a stroll around Hamilton and then we headed for the lovely town of Taupo, situated amongst a gigantic lake (Lake Taupo). Taupo has a fantastic retirement community of folks! We enjoyed a silly night out with some good dancing music. The next day, we went to a secret hot spring called Kerosene Creek and then headed to Rotorua where we met my friend Miesha from CSU! It was crazy to see her on the other side of the world, that’s for sure. She came to NZ on the working-holiday visa as well. Rotorua is a big tourist destination, known for the thermal activity and Maori cultural attractions. Loads of Kiwis refer to it as Roto-vegas! After getting a small taste for the city, visiting Huka Falls, and going for my first of many strolls through sheep fields, I was on the bus again…southbound! Sid was quite the character, filled with jokes and sarcasm. We clicked instantly and I really hope our paths cross again in the future!

Sid striking a pose in my baseball hat 😉

Kia Ora! Nau mai haere ki Aotearoa

Here I am, five and a half months deep in New Zealand…just now giving my blog some much-needed attention. (It took breaking my ankle to devote some down-time towards writing a few posts, go figure!) What can I say? I’m too busy creating memories…  I must say though, I am thankful for the opportunity to share some highlights with you; as I look at my sweet Dino-printed cast wrapping up my right calf 🙂  *The story about how that happened will definitely come!

Kia Ora! Meaning “be well/healthy” in the native Maori language (a common greeting among Kiwis, especially in the North Island). Nau mai haere ki Aotearoa; Maori for “Welcome to New Zealand.”

It was quite the flight to New Zealand, as I was filled with anticipation and nervousness for the unknown journey ahead. I sat next to a middle-aged Kiwi gentleman on the airplane who shared several suggestions and tips with me. Upon arrival, my tramping boots received a thorough cleaning at customs. New Zealand is notorious for their strict regulations around what comes in and out of the country. With hundreds of invasive species which have become pretty destructive to the natural ecosystems here, NZ is constantly fighting to control what enters the country. A notable mention would be the aggressive, brush-tailed possum which was introduced from Australia in 1837 to establish fur trade. The only problem is that the possums have no natural predators in NZ, and therefore cause relentless damage to the plant and bird species here. Stay tuned for “The Ultimate Kiwi Experience: Lisa vs. Possum,” where I go into detail about my close and dangerous encounter with a possum in the wild…

After getting sorted at the airport with my new mobile Telecom phone number, I jumped on a bus and headed for my friend Andrew’s place off Karangahape Road in Auckland (commonly referred to as K-Road). Andrew and I were in the same study abroad program in Prague back in Spring 2011. Andrew and his Czech girlfriend, Velissa opened up their flat to me so I could sleep off the jet lag and get a few things sorted. The first night, we enjoyed dinner at the top of Mt. Eden which is a dormant volcano offering fantastic views of the city! Andrew was the first of many Kiwis to provide me with unbelievable hospitality.

Nani Loa Nui Moku (Beautiful Big Island)

After three different planes and hours of lugging my backpack around in airports, I finally arrived in Kona where the infamous Kip Cline picked me up from the airport. Kip has a unique zest for life and has been the most incredible host!! I got connected with him through my friend Miesha from CSU. The first night, we camped just north of Kona under the moonlight at Kua Bay. An ocean swim felt so great after a day of traveling. It was amazing waking up to this beautiful beach (little did I know this was only the beginning of an extraordinary next few days). We immediately headed for Kiholo where I took my first dive!!! Wow, not even in Hawai’i for 24 hrs and I am already scuba diving… It was unbelievable! We spotted a sea turtle, tons of vibrant fish, a cucumber and sea urchins among a world of ocean life. During the drive out, several wild goats crossed our path!

Scuba Diving in Kiholo

On the Hilo side (where Kip lives), the landscape is much more lush and green compared to the barren Kona side. We met up with Kip’s four friends who would be joining us on the adventure to Waimanu Valley. A crew of six with backpacking gear squished into the two-door blue cavalier and headed for Waipio Valley to take on the hike into Waimanu. The group of Kip, Corey, Joe, Ali, Brenda and myself bonded quickly as we found ourselves hiking the 9.5 miles through the jungle into most of the night. The beginning of the hike at Waipio Valley presents a beautiful beach which is only accessible by an extremely steep road of 25% grade (a big weekend destination for locals). At first, I found this to be quite entertaining as I have never seen a road this steep in my life. As we started the approach across the beach to the trail head, Kip pointed out the the treacherous “Z-trail” which basically went straight up the other cliff side which formed the valley. Wow… I thought I was ready for anything coming from Colorado and hiking all summer. Hawai’i definitely threw me a curve ball as I quickly had to put on my A-game for the climb. The group impressed me as we all pushed through together.

The trek to Waimanu Valley consisted of weaving in and out of several small gulches which lined the ocean (12 to be exact). Along the way, we came across heaps of guava which made for a satisfying treat along with a fresh water pool. As we persevered down the final stretch into Waimanu Valley, everyone was ready for food and some zzz’s.

Looking down into Waimanu Valley

The next day in the valley could have easily been one of the most beautiful days of my life. After catching some waves body surfing and a satisfying breakfast, we set out for a waterfall on a trail marked with pink neon bows tied to trees. The diverse plant life was overwhelmingly impressive. My jaw dropped as we turned towards this magnificent waterfall. After taking a dip, we sat in awe with the entire spot to ourselves. The afternoon involved tons of laughter, amazing scenery, and of course… guava. Joe brought along a home-made fishing spear he created with a fork tied to some bungee cord. I accepted his invitation to go “prawning” just to see this hunting device in action. Boy, this turned into a jungle journey… I posted a video to give you a better idea. Sure enough, he caught a prawn with ease as we waded through never-ending swamps.

Approaching Wai’ilikahi Falls with water falling over 1000 feet from the top!

Guava!!

GoPro Video: Waimanu Valley jungle exploration and waves of fun!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYKMmXwihoU&feature=youtu.be

The tide caught me by surprise that night while I was sleeping on the beach under the stars. Getting wet and moving further up onto the shore was was well-worth the sunrise I caught along with a pod of dolphins that came right up to where the waves were breaking! Brenda, Ali and I decided to get a head start on the long hike out before the boys. During the hike, all I could think about was how simply magical this place was. Several people acknowledged our strenuous efforts as we walked across the beach of Waipio towards the final paved road up the ridge. What a trip!

Sunrise from our campsite at Waimanu

What a crew!! Joe, Corey, Brenda, Lisa, Ali, Kip. Great times!

Monday afternoon I met up with Kawika, who is a native local to Hilo. We have been messaging back and forth through couch-surfing prior to my arrival. He first took me to an awesome kombucha bar and then to the zoo outside the city. That evening we attended a potluck with a group of his work friends (the majority of which were vegan!!). It was an evening of soulful food, fulfilling conversation and the best mochi ever… The following morning, we toured Volcanoes National Park and then spotted a few sea turtles at a rocky beach near Hilo. Thus far, I have had an amazing experience on the Big Island and could not be more grateful for the hospitality and beauty of this place. Before I sign off, I would like to mention the crazy frogs that croak all night here… They are referred to as ” coqui frogs” (named after the sound they make). I have just under a week left of this great island. Until next time!